Disconnected
Spring brown bear cubs (born earlier this year in the hibernation den) wait patiently for their mother to catch salmon on the Brooks River, Katmai National Park & Preserve, Alaska. Photo taken from the lower river bridge, Brooks River, Katmai National Park & Preserve.
I returned from an 18-day trip to Katmai National Park & Preserve yesterday. I usually visit Katmai at least once yearly to photograph its iconic brown bears1 and expansive wilderness.
This year was very different for me. Bad weather was relentless. The pouring rain and high winds removed my motivation to backpack into remote areas, away from the popular Brooks Camp and famous Brooks Falls.
It is a strange year up there. The salmon arrived very late and in lower numbers. This resulted in many bears leaving Brooks Falls, where spawning sockeye salmon pool up before jumping the 6-foot high falls, only to get eaten in mid-air by skilled bears fishing the lip of the falls.
The lower numbers of sockeye salmon are likely related to the record-breaking high temperatures (89 degrees F) in the summer of 2019. Those high temperatures caused the spawning salmon to turn around and go into the depths of Naknek Lake. The bears left, too, until the temperatures reached their normals of the low 60s.
During this hot spell in 2019, I saw many dead fish. I headed to the backcountry, where I ran into bears, wolves, and lynx, all trying to find food in the extreme heat. Their regular feeding cycle was way out of whack.
The sockeye in the Brooks River are on a four-year cycle (one year in the river, three years in the ocean), so the 2019 impacts of heat on the salmon could be realized this year, 2023.
A double rainbow one morning over the Brooks River. You can see Alexander’s Dark Band in between the primary and secondary bow.
“The way I see it, if you want the rainbow, you gotta put up with the rain.”
— Dolly Parton
I agree totally with you. I have written to Supt. Sturm several times about concerns addressing photographers running all over the river, people too close to bears, not obeying rules, swimmers and fishermen in the LR where Moms and cubs stay, the number of visitors, etc. I do not like social media all over everything either. All the goonies on FB who know nothing about the bears or really care about them and yet they vote every year for Fat Bear? That should not be allowed either in my opinion. The huge bridge made a negative impact in so many ways too! It belongs somewhere else! What can we do? I am willing to sign a petition if you want to start one…
Thank you Mindy for writing to Superintendent Mark Sturm. Mark seems like a very reasonable and professional ranger/superintendent. There are lots of complexities to access and what can and cannot be done. If we could wave a magic wand and get a lot more resources for law enforcement rangers in Katmai, court systems that can relate to park violations (currently someone who gets indicted for approaching too close to bear is tried along with other criminal cases like rape, murder, etc.). Judges in these bear related cases can be lenient when comparing to the other cases they hear. In this case the culprits were arrested.
I too totally agree. Mankind is ruining this beautiful place just like they are so many other areas. It’s all about the money!! I would LOVE to sign a petition!!!!! The picture of the beautiful Bear with concerned eyes made me cry.
Hi – 100% agree with you – we need to advocate for the changes necessary to protect the bears. They are just trying to survive another year … they aren’t here for just for our enjoyment. I have the same fear as you that something is going to happen and the bears will suffer for it. I’ve been twice to Katmai – and have seen people violate the rules repeatedly. I’m not shy and have yelled at people for their stupidity and will do it in any place where I see people think they’re above the rules. I think more needs to happen then a petition, but it’s a place to start. This is the bears’ world and, while I feel lucky to have witness to it, I’d gladly give it all up if it meant protection for these beautiful creatures.
Thank you for your comments, Amy. Good point, “they aren’t here just for our enjoyment”.
It is sad that it has come to this. Here in Sonoma County, CA, I stay for the organic farms and the beauty. I live on a property with some acreage and the wildlife here is plentiful. I always enjoy it from afar but I have noticed on the wildlife groups the photos are more and more… dare I say close and Im not attributing it to the cameras. It is disconcerting. On the coast here the sea lions mate and there are ropes around the sand to keep the passersby from being overly intrusive but even that doesn’t seem to be enough. We have to get into the solution. I appreciate your blog… and you!
Thank you for your comments Vikki. The challenge with too many people pushing the rules and limits is happening in so many places, unfortunately there is also a new attitude of entitlement, “I can do whatever I want.”. I am not sure where that comes from.
It is so refreshing to hear a voice of reason. I have known about the Katmai and McNeil brown bear viewing for many years. It was only this year, after joining a couple of Brown Bear Groups on Facebook, that I observed the anthropomorphic bear fandom, that is more about social media than it is about the bears.
After living in Alaska for 11 years and fishing in some fairly wild places, I was shocked to see a Disneyland for bear viewing occurring among what Alaskans approach in a much more serious manner. The bush is a wild place where one must proceed in a deliberate manner always keeping an eye out for potential danger. It insures not only the longevity of the people but also the wildlife that can be downright dangerous when guarding territory, offspring, and food.
I am certain that pressure on the Brooks bears can generate some unwanted outcomes. Bear behavior is innate and no one can be certain of how any bear will react, in any particular situation.
I also fear that bears used to seeing so many humans, will become habituated to us, will lose their caution and become an easy mark for hunters and poachers.
Thank you, Tracy, for your comments. Yes, for sure,they are wild animals and hopefully they will stay that way with minimal impact from humans.
Ed,
We also agree. I write comments in every year. It is almost like money see monkey do. I think photographers go in and now everyone does. Even if nothing occurs it causes shy bears to not be able to feed. I think politics cause lack of enforcement and decent rules. Good job posting and adding solutions.
Thank you Gina for reading and commenting, and for providing comments to the NPS. Yes, politics for sure. There are issues with stream access laws, and of course lots of businesses fly clients in to fly fish the famous Brooks River, so that also has leverage. What I think is the best solution is increased law enforcement with stiffer fines.
Hi Ed, I am glad to see your email. I have to say stunning photos!!
I been thinking about your trip to Alaska and was curious to know how it went. As I was reading your blog I was thinking of solutions for that situation, and coincidently you mentioned both, which are the surveillance through cameras in the area as well as to limit the number os people (I would say photographers, since people would me more aware to no to get too close to bears) to access the area. I would suggest a system that would have the photographer’s profile and details and based on their behave in the area they would be allowed to explore the wildlife, and with the use of cameras they would be more concern no to break the rules in exchange of the best shot. So a data bank to monitor the number of photographers in that area would have less photographers in the area and that would not affect the wildlife.
Hi Lumar,
Thank you for your comments and suggestions. It does seem like they could cover a lot of the issues with surveillance cameras, afterall the river has lots of cameras up already for explore.org. I look forward to catching up with you soon.
Take care,
Ed
Ed, thanks for “venting”. These issues have to be addressed and I agree the first steps should be better ranger enforcement at the locations and stiffer sanctions for the violators. Our species alone has the knowledge, power and ability to keep this planet safe for just about all other species, yet we continue to dismantle and ignore the natural safety nets and protections that keep us, the bears and other animal populations healthy. Sadly, too many of us just don’t care.
Well put, Rob. We need to collectively change a lot of attitudes on establishing better safety nets and how our behaviors affect more than just humans. Thank you!
I have not visited Katami yet and may never now. I have friends who have and it has become a zoo of photographers. I think the best solution is to ban all wading photography in the waters. Too hard to patrol for bad apples! But l don’t it will happen until someone get hurt and bear dies. Government is too stupid in my opinion.
Your thoughts on the current situation at Brooks Falls sums it up perfectly. As we discussed when we talked about this subject when we were both there in August, the problem is becoming unmanageable.
The problem is created from several sources all wanting to capitalize on the bears.
Explore.Org has done a great job letting ever know about “Fat Bear Week”. People want to see Brooks Falls.
The surrounding communities of Homer and King salmon now have B&B’s and flights throughout the day to Brooks Falls. This creates many “ day visitors “. When we attended our bear school session in August, the Ranger told us many days they were having 420 daily attendees for “Bear School”. Brooks falls I was told allows 64 tent campers and 60 cabin campers per night. This means most days 290+ day visitors came to Brooks Falls.
The National Park and Brooks Falls want to make money.
The environment and the bears are suffering. Limits need to be placed as other parks have done. I have written Superintendent Mark Sturm. He needs to take action.
Brooks Falls has become a Disney Land
Hi Roberta, thank you for your comments and feedback. I think it is good to contact the NPS authorities. It was good to see you up there!
Wonderful article summarizing the current Brooks situation, Ed!
My first trip to Brooks was in July, 2014 and some photographers were obnoxious THEN with only four bears at the falls sometimes. There will always be some of those types of people, unfortunately! My latest trip was last September and I MUCH prefer visiting in September. I was against the new big bridge before it was built, but like you, have found it to have had some very positive impacts on both the bears and visitors. It is now a great place to observe and photograph bears at any time of the day and allows great handicapped access as well. I don’t miss the constant radio calls back and forth monitoring the big crowds of visitors anxious about getting across the old floating bridge to meet flights, etc. The bears seem happy with the new bridge as well, often swimming and fishing right below you.
NPS will never have enough funding for adequate enforcement, but I worked four summers in Yellowstone and covering that vast territory is even worse. We all see frequent news reports of the latest “touron” behaviors. Absolutely stiffer penalties would help, but we can’t expect the behaviors to stop regardless.
My biggest issue on my latest trip in 2022 was the HUGE number of day visitors. Obviously, the average cabin is NOT filled by four people every night and the campground is limited to 60 persons. The real issue lies in the need to limit day visitors. I just returned from a visit to Glacier NP and it took some planning and luck to get the necessary three day permit to even drive the Going to the Sun road!. Also had to have a separate DAY permit to enter the Many Glacier entrance. Yes, it was a hassle and there still were crowds everywhere, but I see no reason this can’t be tried for Brooks. This was the first year for the car permit system as a trial for Glacier. I will be interested to see how the NPS judges its effect on attendance. (Note: you could still drive in but only before 6am or after 3pm without a permit). Attendance at Brooks is already “capped” in numbers for cabins and campground, it is the day trip situation that needs to be addressed and that wouldn’t be very hard to do at all.
I am also saddened by how many returning visitors now feel the need to hire a guide to walk the river. It is discussed and even encouraged on some social media sites, even by ethical photographers! I agree with you, Ed that it is very easy to “cap” the number of people having access to walking in the river just for photography and not fishing.
Thank you for taking the time to compose your article with your insights and suggestions. Hope to see you there again someday as it is always a pleasure to converse with you!
Hi Pat,
Thank you for your comments and sharing your experiences. Yes, you are correct about the day trippers being a large component of the increased visitation. There is a tension between economic livelihood (jobs and funds coming into Alaska from guided trips and float plane visits) and impacts on the wildlife and environment.
If NPS could increase enforcement and cite both poorly behaved visitors, and the guides they are paying, then I think behavior could change in a positive way, and still allow a relatively high visitation rate. As you say though, NPS does not have the resources to make this happen, and likely never will. To me, that is the place to focus first. Figure out how many more rangers and court appearances are needed to prosecute bad apples and confiscate their equipment, and then charge accordingly.
I do hope we see each other up there in the future.
Thanks
Ed
Ed, Thank you for this blog article. I agree with your potential solutions. I too have written to Superintendent Strum with concerns about the huge number of day visitors and poor behavior exhibited by some of them. Katmai belongs to the bears and other wildlife. Their needs come first. The bears only have a short window of opportunity to fatten up for hibernation. It is a matter of life and death for them. Day trippers should be limited. There is no excuse for not limiting them. Increased resources for law enforcement should be a priority. Law enforcement, biologists and rangers should be free to make suggestions and those suggestions given priority. Visitors who encroach on bear habitat or cause the bears to alter their behavior should be removed from Kamtai and face legal consequences. Bad behavior at Katmai or any of our national parks cannot be tolerated and must be stopped. Thank you for taking up this important issue.
Thank you, Margaret, for reading the article and for writing to Mark Sturm. Something needs to be done…